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Return-Path: Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 11:10:06 -0600 (MDT) From: owner-fordtrucks-digest To: fordtrucks-digest Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #190 Reply-To: fordtrucks Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest fordtrucks-digest Thursday, September 4 1997 Volume 01 : Number 190 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: cc'ing heads [jniolon Re: Oil pressure and 390FE..... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: rearend/tranny combo's ["George Shepherd" ] Re: cc'ing heads ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: Door Panels for 74 F250 [John MacNamara ] Re: Brakes, an update [John MacNamara ] Re: Timing Chain Questions ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: F 350 Brakes ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: Brakes, an update ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: microfilm/ parts list [John MacNamara ] Re: Frame Rivets ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: Brakes, an update ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Headers/Exhaust?? [Joe DeLaurentis ] Bleeding Brakes [DWBaile Re: C6 Noise ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: '64 F100 Rear End Q's ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: Bleeding Brakes [John MacNamara ] 1937-48 Ford V-8 Engines ["Gene E. Bray" ] ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 04 Sep 1997 07:10 -0400 (EDT) From: jniolon Subject: cc'ing heads Gentlemen, I am rebuilding a '75 Lincoln 460 and have a question about cc'ing the heads. The casting #'s are D3VE and D_VE. I wanted to make sure they were the same and verify the volume, so I borrow a 50 ml Burrette, clean the heads, drill the plexiglas and start measuring..... I've done 3 chambers on one head and the read 107cc, 97cc, and 102cc respectively..somewhat puzzled I switched to the other head and it read 105cc. Is this normal for such a wide range ? I installed plugs, saw no leaks when doing the measuring. Is 10cc a large difference ? What does this do to compression ratios with such a (large ?) descrepancy ? Your contributions to my education will be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance john ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 09:35:55 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: Oil pressure and 390FE..... > Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 19:41:14 -0700 (PDT) > From: Paul > Subject: Oil pressure and 390FE..... > begin almost immediately after start up. I dissasembled the old > filter and everything looked normal and the AC part number crossed > with the Fram(what was THAT doing in there!?!?). The odd thing is Ford Motor Craft makes one of the best filters on the market. Why don't you use the ford filter? I believe the 8A is the same as the FL1A Motor Craft in which case you should be right but I don't know for sure if the FE's used a different one from the 351W of that year which used the FL1A. 05 - 10 sec seems like a reasonable time for the pressure to build up to me. All my engines have alway taken a few seconds to register on the gauge. The sender is probably on the rear of the engine taken off of the cam/lifer oil gallery which is the last place on the engine to get oil. Some have the sender near the pump which might give quicker pressure indication, don't know which you have. Do you pre-fill the new filter when you change filters? It's recommended :-) The swift of foot and slow of wit have more off road experiences - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 08:45:09 -0500 From: "George Shepherd" Subject: Re: rearend/tranny combo's Easy way would be to go with a 5 speed with 5th being an overdrive. There are a lot of Clark's out there which can be had reasonable. For Ford autos with overdrive, there are only 2 choices. An AOD from the early 80's, but it would have to be rebuilt to be heavy duty as it would be marginal with a 390 if it was rodded. An E4OD would work, but youd have to buy an emulator and throttle position sensor to run it as it is computer controlled. Unless there is some physical reason she can't shift, I'd be patient and teach her and go with the clark. - ---------- > From: The Gautschi Family > To: fordtrucks > Subject: rearend/tranny combo's > Date: Wednesday, September 03, 1997 11:58 PM > > Our family just bought a 71 F 250 crew cab short bed to customize into our > own camp'in , cruz'in , off road machine. The truck is in excellent > condition and a great place to start for us. My question is what > suggestions do you all have for tranny/rearend combo's. The rig currently > has a 390 (that will stay) and a 4 speed (1st is granny) and I'm not sure > what the rear end is. I would like to put a newer auto in there with > overdrive for better fuel mileage and make it easier for my wife to drive. > Keep in mind the rig will be used mainly for highway driving and some light > off roading. > > Thanks, > > Ron G. > > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+ > | Send posts to fordtrucks > | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request > +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 09:45:11 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: cc'ing heads > From: jniolon > Date: Thu, 04 Sep 1997 07:10 -0400 (EDT) > Subject: cc'ing heads > I've done 3 chambers on one head and the read 107cc, 97cc, and > 102cc respectively..somewhat puzzled I switched to the other > head and it read 105cc. Take a look at the valves in each chamber and compare the depth to which they may have been ground in or if run very long on unleaded may have recessed some due to wearing of the mating seat surfaces. Ford valve seats were not inducton hardened till around 73 if I remember correctly. I'm sure you cleaned them very well so there are no carbon deposits right? The swift of foot and slow of wit have more off road experiences - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Sep 1997 07:11:19 -0700 From: John MacNamara Subject: Re: Door Panels for 74 F250 Keith Srb wrote: > > Does any body have any idea where I can get replacement door panels for a 74 > F250, OEM or custom built? > > Thanks > > TTFN > > Keith Srb herbie > 1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed. > 1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up. > 1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side. > 1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box. > My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!" > > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+ > | Send posts to fordtrucks > | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request > +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+ Keith: Try Jimmy Rose at JST Automotive in Lebanon Tennesee. I just got through talkin to him and he has a 4000 foot warehouse with 68-79 Ford truck parts. I asked if he had door panels and he said he did. Thanks John MacNamara ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Sep 1997 07:14:27 -0700 From: John MacNamara Subject: Re: Brakes, an update Gary, 78 BBB wrote: > > Weeeeeell, I've got my stainless steel braided flex lines on the > bronco now, one for each axle, front and rear from Skyjacker (Cepek) > and two wheel lines from Earl's. I think I know why some lines, > though quality made are not dot approved, the originals had square > banjo fittings on one end which fit into a square spot on the > caliper so they could not be moved to loosen the banjo bolt. The > new ones from Earl's have round banjos which may, over time, loosen > from the tugging of the wheel while turning etc.. > > I bought a double flare kit and finally learned how to make a good > flare. (helps to turn the clamp around with the chamfer on the > correct side) and discovered that I can make a slightly better flare > if I leave just a tad more material sticking out initially than the > book calls for. I don't think I will ever buy standard tubing again > since it never quite fits the way I want and solid line eliminates > potential leaks between the axles. It's really easy once you get the > principles sorted out. I used a little anti-seize to lube the die > which helped the forming process. > > Didn't have time to fully bleed the brakes last night but got most of > the air out and have fairly solid pedal today on the way to work but > still relatively little stopping power. It appears that the > stainless lines have helped a bit with the pedal firmness and I was > able to skidd a couple of tires at speed but it took just about all > the power I could exert on the pedal to do it. I swear, I used to > set up 4 wheel drums with less head ache than this! > > The other irritating thing is the uneveness of pressure on the > wheels. It tends to pull in a panick stop so that it's really > disconcerting. I've played with the drum adjustemet but this pull > seems to be due to the front disks since it never pulls the same way > twice. If I ever get this thing figured out I'll REALLY be an expert > on brakes by golley! :-) > > The swift of foot and slow of wit > have more off road experiences > > -- Gary -- > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+ > | Send posts to fordtrucks > | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request > +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+ Gary: I just got through talking to a Jimmy Rose in Lebanon Tennessee about this brake problem and he said that in 78 Ford went to a 1 1/16" master cylinder for all the f250's but in 1976, the master cylinder had a diameter of 1 1/4". It sounds like we need the bigger master cylinder so we can move more fluid. Thanks John MacNamara 78 F250 4X4 Supercab 67 GT500 66 Corvette ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 10:21:51 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: Timing Chain Questions > From: Keith Srb > Subject: Timing Chain Questions > Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 14:58:25 -0700 > 1. Does anyone make a gear drive set to replace the chain and gears? Not familiar with the markings on the FE's but usually the block will have an arrow for the crank at the top and the cam will have a mark on the bottom also on the block and some I've seen simply line the marks up so they face each other (which would be the case mentioned above as well) but without marks on the block. I personally like the Pete Jackson design with it's double gear setup and will be using them on my next 460 build up but have no experience with them as yet. I hear they're pretty noisy but some models can be had with silent or teflon coated gears. The silent chain is still a pretty good way to go and only costs about $50 but doesn't have the tech appeal of the gears :-) The swift of foot and slow of wit have more off road experiences - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 10:40:30 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: F 350 Brakes > > From: "The Zahn's" > Subject: Re: F 350 Brakes > > Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 21:21:06 -0700.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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