Date: Wed, 19 Feb 1997 10:41:26 -0500 (EST) To: fordtrucks-digest lofcom.com
From: digest-proc lofcom.com
Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0002
Reply-To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Volume 97 Number 0002 fordtrucks Digest

Today's Topics:

RE: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD
Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD
Re: 47 Panel Truck
Re: '47 Panel Van info request
Re: '47 Panel Van info request
'74 F-250 - Some Questions
Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions
Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions
97 F150 problems
Ford Engines
Re: 97 F150 problems
RE: '74 F-250 - Some Questions
'74 F-250 - Some Questions
Re: Ford Engines
Re: Ford Engines
Re: 56 F-100s-Big window
RE: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD
Re: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD
Re: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD -Reply
'68 F100 front disc conversion
47 Panel
Re: '68 F100 front disc conversion
Kit Kar Nox Control System
Re: Kit Kar Nox Control System
Dropping a 5.0 in a 95 Ranger
Re: Manufacturers' goofy metric designations...
Dropping a 5.0 in a 95 Ranger -Reply
Re: Manufacturers' goofy metric designations... -Reply
Re: Manufacturers' goofy metric designations... -Reply


* PLEASE DO NOT QUOTE THE ENTIRE DIGEST IN REPLIES TO THE LIST! *

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>From rcollins micron.net Tue Feb 18 00:45:07 1997 From: Randy Collins Subject: RE: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Gary,

I understand your frustration in looking for the steering linkage parts = for your Ford. =20

I am in the process of building a Ford F250 4x4 around the same year as = yours. I had a heck of a time locating the steering linkage pieces I = needed. I kind sole (via Internet) suggested that I try NAPA auto parts = for the source. Unfortunately, that was a dead end. I finally located = the parts from a salvage yard over 300 miles from my home. Almost every = truck I looked at had the necessary steering pieces missing. I hope = that by the time mine wears out again the aftermarket will have caught = up with the demand for the parts. =20

I would think that the trucks on the east coast would be very rusted by = now and be good part sources. =20

Good luck,

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
----------
From: Gary Mumma[SMTP:gmumma mnsinc.com] Sent: Monday, February 17, 1997 8:25 AM To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD

Subject is what I'm looking for. I have a 1979 Ford F-150 4WD that has = a
bad universal joint in the steering shaft between the steering column = shaft
and the steering box. Ford says they stopped selling them 2 years ago. = I
also called a bearing company to see about just replacing the u-joint. = They
also told me the bearing was out of production with none left on the = shelf.

The Ford part number for the intermediate steering shaft is D9TZ3B676A.
The u-joint is a Torrington MYT661.

Can anyone PLEASE tell me where I may find one of these items? I would really hate to part with the truck over something so minor, yet so = neccessary.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Gary

**************************************************************** * Gary Mumma + Ofcourse all opinions are mine, * * gmumma mnsinc.com + No one else wants to take * * Arlington, Virginia + credit for my stupidity * *++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++* * =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D Homepage located at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mnsinc.com/gmumma = =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D *
****************************************************************



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>From mmiller dryden.net Tue Feb 18 00:57:46 1997 From: "Mitch Miller" Subject: Re: 47 Panel Truck
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

> In 47 Ford made three versions of a panel truck. One was called a Sedan Delivery and was built on a car chassis. Since you say yours is just like a truck, it is probably not this one. The other two were both built on truck chassis and were both called panel delivery trucks, one with a 114 in wheelbase (body type C82) and one with a 122 inch wheelbase (body type Y82). Both used the 59A engine with the Ford (Holley actually made most of them) 2V carb.

Thanks very much for the info, Roger. I'll have to get the tape measure out to figure which one it is.



------------------------------
>From mmiller dryden.net Tue Feb 18 00:57:48 1997 From: "Mitch Miller" Subject: Re: '47 Panel Van info request To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Engine made in 1946, serial number 8169 Green interior with a brown leatherette seat.
Yosemite Green Paint

~~ Thanks Bill ~~


------------------------------
>From mmiller dryden.net Tue Feb 18 00:57:49 1997 From: "Mitch Miller" Subject: Re: '47 Panel Van info request To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Steve said:

If you have your serial number I can possibly tell you more. Email it to me and I'll see if I can
dig up my codes.

~~ Thanks Steve, but can you tell me where I can find the serial number? I have no paperwork with the van!



------------------------------
>From mtanner pacifier.com Tue Feb 18 10:28:59 1997 From: Mark Tanner Subject: '74 F-250 - Some Questions
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Ken Payne wrote:
> Number of subscriptions has hit 100! I had expected it to hit

I guess I must be number 100 since when I subscribed, I got a message that said there are 100 subscribers of the list.

I have a '74 F-250 Supercab Longbed. I bought this truck intending to have a cheap beater pickup. Cost me $750. Since I am not one to leave broken things alone $1800 later I have a good running, relatively reliable truck although I haven't gotten into the brakes/ wheel bearings yet. I am beginning to think about doing more to the truck so I have some questions.

The body has two major problem areas. The bed is rusted through at the right front mounting bolt and is generally in pretty sad shape including the tailgate. How easy would it be to find a bed for this truck? I am thinking I would have to pay about $500 for a good one.

Also there is a badly rusted spot at the lower rear corner of the cab on the right side. There are two layers of metal with a space between them.
The outside layer has a hole about 3" x 6". Is there a source for new body panels for this truck? In this situation do you need to worry about the repair leaving bare metal between the two panels as a future site of rust?

The doors have several holes in them from several different mirrors over the years. Some of them are .5" in diameter. ??? Should I try to weld them up or look for some good doors to replace them?

The motor is a 390. I basically need to replace the entire exhaust system with the possible exception of the manifolds. There are two studs broken off in the right head and there is a vise grip clamped near one of them.
Would a muffler shop be able to replace the broken studs for a reasonable fee? Since I have to replace everything anyway should I consider headers and dual exhaust? Does anyone make headers for this truck that fit well and won't give me too many headaches with leaks? I am not looking for high RPM horsepower but good trailer towing torque.

If I do all this work to the truck, am I wasting money that would be better spent on a truck that is in better shape to begin with?

Mark
---
Mark Tanner mtanner pacifier.com Washougal, WA



------------------------------
>From rick adc.com Tue Feb 18 11:17:43 1997 From: rick adc.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Mark writes:

> I have a '74 F-250 Supercab Longbed. I bought this truck intending to
> have a cheap beater pickup. Cost me $750. Since I am not one to leave
> broken things alone $1800 later I have a good running, relatively reliable
> truck although I haven't gotten into the brakes/ wheel bearings yet. I am
> beginning to think about doing more to the truck so I have some questions.

Wow! My $200 '71 F100 might be a "good buy" :-). You might want to check the rear axle seals. Both were shot on mine. Also check the master cylinder push rod under the dash. My master cylinder started leaking there.

> Also there is a badly rusted spot at the lower rear corner of the cab on
> the right side. There are two layers of metal with a space between them.
> The outside layer has a hole about 3" x 6". Is there a source for new
> body panels for this truck? In this situation do you need to worry about
> the repair leaving bare metal between the two panels as a future site of
> rust?

I talked to a Ford body man and you can get new cab corners. You will have to remove the bed to get at them. I don't have a source (Ford?). I used some duct tape, expanding foam from a can and some undercoating. You might want something better looking.

> If I do all this work to the truck, am I wasting money that would be
> better spent on a truck that is in better shape to begin with?

Tough call. I've spent about $200 keeping mine running in the past two years. It is nice having a another Ford in storage to canabilize for parts. Now, gas and oil are the main costs. I get about 13mpg with a 302.

rick
'66 Mustang garage shelf
'71 F100 daily driver (102K miles!)
--
Rick Larson rick adc.com Minneapolis


------------------------------
>From kulige vitro.bloomington.in.us Tue Feb 18 12:11:35 1997 From: "Erickson" Subject: Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hey Mark and fellow trucksters,

> > From: Mark Tanner
> > Subject: '74 F-250 - Some Questions
> I have a '74 F-250 Supercab Longbed. I bought this truck intending to
> have a cheap beater pickup. Cost me $750. Since I am not one to leave
> broken things alone $1800 later I have a good running, relatively reliable
> truck although I haven't gotten into the brakes/ wheel bearings yet.

You sound like me! ;)

> The body has two major problem areas. The bed is rusted through at the
> right front mounting bolt and is generally in pretty sad shape including
> the tailgate. How easy would it be to find a bed for this truck? I am
> thinking I would have to pay about $500 for a good one.

I've seen new ones in catalogs in this price range....I would think you could find one much cheaper at a local yard.

> Also there is a badly rusted spot at the lower rear corner of the cab on
> the right side. There are two layers of metal with a space between them.
> The outside layer has a hole about 3" x 6". Is there a source for new
> body panels for this truck?

Probably....

>In this situation do you need to worry about
> the repair leaving bare metal between the two panels as a future site of
> rust?

Definite Yes! When you open this up, be sure to remove all the rust you can, and use some type of rust inhibitor to stop the growth of any you can't entirely clean up. Otherwise in 3 years you'll be doing all this work again. (I'm assuming that you plan to keep the truck for some time).

> The doors have several holes in them from several different mirrors over
> the years. Some of them are .5" in diameter. ??? Should I try to weld
> them up or look for some good doors to replace them?

If your doors are otherwise good, then I would elect to fix the holes. Gramps did the same thing with my '61, but fortunately for me the holes aren't all that large. Depending on how long you plan on keeping the beast, and to what extent you plan on "restoring" it, you've got several options besides finding (and paying for) new door skins. You could have the holes filled with a MIG and a fender washer, or even brazed in (being careful not to get the metal too hot.) A little grinding, a little bondo/glazing compound, little sanding, and viola! No more holes with just a little time and for cheap!



> If I do all this work to the truck, am I wasting money that would be
> better spent on a truck that is in better shape to begin with?

This is entirely up to you. _MY_ personal opinion is that since you have about $1800 bucks into the truck and if it is overall pretty decent, putting a couple more bucks into it will be a whole lot cheaper than shelling out $20K+ for a new truck.....You'll save a bunch on insurance, too!! ;)

Think about how much newer truck financing would run you for even a year. Now spend that cash on your truck, fixing up the things that have gotten neglected, and splash on a new coat of paint (once the dings and rust spots have been repaired correctly, of course!). And what do you have? A spiffy, reliable, CLASSIC truck _and_ $15K+ in your pocket! How can you go wrong?! Especially if you're like me and like the older look.

Good luck.
Just one opinion.............
Eric
1961 F100 Pick'em up truck





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>From llemmon pilot-ind.com Tue Feb 18 13:18:07 1997 From: llemmon pilot-ind.com
Subject: 97 F150 problems
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hello,
My name is Lee Lemmon and I am new to the l*st. I own a 93 Ranger 4x4 s-cab with 4.0 and 5spd. The Ranger has been a great truck so far, except for driveshaft problems and minor fluid leaks.
My question relates to driveline problems with the 97 F150's. Has anyone else had problems with their new truck? A friend of mine has a 97 4x4 s-cab with the 5.4 motor. He has taken it in for service and had two driveshafts & U-joints replaced so far.(15,000 mi) I was ready to order one but would like to hear from other owners if they have experienced the same problems.

Lee


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>From sherwin expert.cc.purdue.edu Tue Feb 18 13:33:55 1997 From: Gregory Sherwin Subject: Ford Engines
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I currently have a 351 Modified engine in a 1984 F-150 with an automatic transmission. I threw a rod the other day and am now rebuilding the engine. The block and heads are fine but I think I am going to replace all the internal parts. Can anyone tell what the differnce is between the 351 Modified and the 400 engines.


------------------------------
>From jhazewinkel exodus.valpo.edu Tue Feb 18 14:19:32 1997 From: Jeff Hazewinkel Subject: Re: 97 F150 problems
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I have a 97 F150 with about 17,000 miles on it and have not had any driveshaft problems. My father has one also, and he has had no problems either.

Jeff


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>From lsmeins ball.com Tue Feb 18 15:24:05 1997 From: lsmeins ball.com (Larry Smeins)
Subject: RE: '74 F-250 - Some Questions To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

----------
From: FORDTRUCKS
To: FORDTRUCKS
Subject: '74 F-250 - Some Questions
Date: Tuesday, February 18, 1997 10:28AM


Ken Payne wrote:
> Number of subscriptions has hit 100! I had expected it to hit

>I guess I must be number 100 since when I subscribed, I got a message that
>said there are 100 subscribers of the list.

>I have a '74 F-250 Supercab Longbed. I bought this truck intending to
>have a cheap beater pickup. Cost me $750. Since I am not one to leave
>broken things alone $1800 later I have a good running, relatively reliable
>truck although I haven't gotten into the brakes/ wheel bearings yet. I am
>beginning to think about doing more to the truck so I have some questions.

>The body has two major problem areas. The bed is rusted through at the
>right front mounting bolt and is generally in pretty sad shape including
>the tailgate. How easy would it be to find a bed for this truck? I am
>thinking I would have to pay about $500 for a good one.

>Also there is a badly rusted spot at the lower rear corner of the cab on
>the right side. There are two layers of metal with a space between them.
>The outside layer has a hole about 3" x 6". Is there a source for new
>body panels for this truck? In this situation do you need to worry about
>the repair leaving bare metal between the two panels as a future site of
>rust?

Rust is extremely difficult to repair with a lasting fix. The problem isn't the bare metal but the fact that all protective films are burned off during the welding and new rust starts forming before the weld is cold. There are some new fluxes and wires just for this problem. If they are used a rust preventive coating is formed around the bead on both sides of the panel. I don't know who makes this stuff but a respected body man showed it too me while discussing derusting my old pickup. I'd suggest either finding it, if you are doing the work, or find a body man that understands rust control and have him weld the panels in place. If you you have repairs welded in that can be accessed from the rear wait a few days after welding them in and apply a coat of lacquer based EXTEND to the backside. EXTEND is a phosphoric acid rust treatment that really works on light rust. Its available in spray cans at places like K-Mart in the automotive section.....

---

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