80-96-list-digest Tuesday, June 2 1998 Volume 02 : Number 195



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Performance
FTE 80-96 - Re: Brake Fluid Change
FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio
RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Performance
Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio
Re: FTE 80-96 - 82 F250 4x4 problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio
FTE 80-96 - 1994 Ranger stutter problems
FTE 80-96 - F-150 tire brands
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1994 Ranger stutter problems
FTE 80-96 - Chris Kelley
RE: FTE 80-96 - 300cid I-6 Performance?
Re: FTE 80-96 - axle seals
> FTE 80-96 - RE:C-bushings (was:mirror buttons and such)
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE:C-bushings (was:mirror buttons and such)
FTE 80-96 - 460 Engine Question
Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio
Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio

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Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 09:03:42 -0400
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Performance

>Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 06:55:26 -0600 (MDT)
>From: Jeff Crowell T/208-396-6525
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Performance

>Hey, Mike and Gene.

>Nice to see some discussion about the 300 ci engine. I have a >93
S-cab 4X4 F-150, and have been leaning toward the header >installation.
Mike, what sort of performance improvements, if >any, have you seen
since installing the headers? Whose >headers are they (i.e. is there
anyone besides Clifford who >makes 6-banger headers)? What's your
opinion of the design of >the headers? I'm kinda stuck in the old "while
you got it >open" syndrome... I mean, while it's all torn apart anyway,
>why not stuff a new cam in there? If you're doing that, you >really
should upgrade the valvetrain. Gee, what about the >timing chain. And
so on. I don't have a gazillion bucks to >spend, so the total cost is a
worry.

>Thanks for any comments.
>Jeff

My header is made by Headman & my intake by Offenhauser. I like the
design of the header, equal length pipes in which the front 3 and back 3
pipes collect together giving you a true duel exhaust. But the paint job
wasn't very good. It bubbled up and burned off 10 min. after I fired it
up for the first time. Don't use the paper gasket they give you either,
use a metal backed one, It burned thru that almost as quickly. I had to
pull it back off, sand blast it & repaint. Not fun. I would really
consider getting a coated header or at least painting it yourself first
with good quality paint. The performance improvements were like night
and day. My truck has 190,000 miles on it(about 40,000 with the
performance parts), it's never been rebuilt and runs great. I was very,
very happy. I seen an ad in a magazine that claims 50hp over stock with
the intake manifold alone and 115hp with the addition of headers and a
cam. I didn't think a new cam was necessary, since the stock one seems
to work great for me. I didn't want to tear into my motor either. I paid
$190 for the intake and $150 for the header. Hope this helps.
Mike
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Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 09:13:37 EDT
From: JDavis1277 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Brake Fluid Change

If you are losing brake fluid rapidly enough to change it every couple of
years by topping up the cylinder you probably have a leak. Get it fixed, and
then change the fluid periodically. An easy way to change the fluid by
yourself is to get a section of clear plastic windshield wiper hose or similar
which will fit tightly over the brake cylinder bleeder valve. Length varies
according to how high above the ground the bleeder valve is located.
Generally, about 2 feet should do. Fill a clear bottle with enough brake
> fluid to cover the bottom of the hose when inserted into the bottle. Use a
large bottle the first time you do this. Beginning with the wheel farthest
from the master cylinder, attach the hose to the valve, insert it into the
bottle with the end below the level of the fluid. Open the bleeder valve
without disturbing the hose. Pump the brakes a couple of times. Top up the
master cylinder with new fluid. Check the level of fluid in the bottle.
Repeat the process until you get clean fluid in the hose. If it becomes
necessary to empty the bottle, close the bleeder valve first, then start over
again with that valve. Continue to the next farthest wheel cylinder until you
have completed the job. Its important to keep the master cylinder topped up
during this process because the whole point of the exercise is to prevent the
introduction of air into the brake system. Butch Davis-
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Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 09:19:23 -0400
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio

How do you go about changing the gears in a rear diff?
Do you need any special tools? Is it fairly simple?
What about adding a locking or limited slip diff?
I have an '86 f-150 2wd with the stock rear end, 3.08 gears.
I have 31x10.5 tires which are larger than the stock p235x75r15 tires.
Thanks,
Mike
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Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 10:12:24 -0400
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Performance

I just called the parts store where I ordered mine from. He said he
could order one for me for in the mid one hundred dollar range (for a
Headman).
The parts store is
Auto Parts Unlimited
3023 N. East Street
Lansing, Michigan 48906
1-517-487-6200

Jeg's High Performace mail order. 1-800-345-4545
sells one for $109 for a Walker-Blackjack Style header.
I'm sure they sell the Headman header also.

-----Original Message-----
From: Sean Winters [mailto:swinters pritchettnet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 1998 9:58 AM
To: 'mikej granger-co.com'
Subject: FW: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Performance

Hey Mike,

You and I have talked about this before. I have the 82
stepside with
the 300-6. Where did you find the header for $150??? All
the prices I
have seen have been *at least* $250...sometimes more.

Sean Winters
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Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 10:42:42 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio

At 09:19 AM 6/2/98 -0400, you wrote:
>How do you go about changing the gears in a rear diff?
>Do you need any special tools? Is it fairly simple?
>What about adding a locking or limited slip diff?
>I have an '86 f-150 2wd with the stock rear end, 3.08 gears.
>I have 31x10.5 tires which are larger than the stock p235x75r15 tires.
>Thanks,
>Mike

No special tools, and its pretty simple. Block the front
tires in front and behind them. Losen the nuts on the front
of the diff. and take off the joint. Put the rear end up on
jack stands, take the tires off. Unbolt the axle ends from
the axle tube. Slide the axles out about 2 inches. Take
the nuts off the diff, pull diff out (use a rolling jack,
its heavy) and put another one in. Installation is the
reverse of this. First time ought to take 2-3 hours. Second
time will take 45 minutes, if you've got someone to help,
it can be accomplished, with practice, in 15 minutes.
Putting a locker in should be the same as an open end.

Ken Payne

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Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 10:54:32 -0400
From: Chad Royse
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 82 F250 4x4 problems

I think you should come to a complete stop and shift into Park before going to 4lo.
Doing that all but guarantees you that nothing is spinning in the transfer case.

Chad

ToddRPM aol.com wrote:

> Hello everyone.
> I recently bought an 82 F250 4x4 with 351/c-6. After driving it down the
> freeway last Friday and returning home (about a 75 mile round trip) I tried to
> put the truck in 4-low. I could not get the truck shifted into any drive gear
> after I pulled it out of 2H. Grind, Grind, Grind. If I shut the truck off,
> put it into Park, I could put the truck in any 4x4 mode I wanted, then turned
> truck on and away I went, I just couldn't shift it while truck was running, in
> neutral of course. Any ideas what causes the transfer case to grind? Thanks.
> toddrpm aol.com
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Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 11:06:18 -0400
From: "Bruce A. Ramirez"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing gear ratio

What about setting the backlash on the ring and pinion?

Ken Payne wrote:
>
> At 09:19 AM 6/2/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >How do you go about changing the gears in a rear diff?
> >Do you need any special tools? Is it fairly simple?
> >What about adding a locking or limited slip diff?
> >I have an '86 f-150 2wd with the stock rear end, 3.08 gears.
> >I have 31x10.5 tires which are larger than the stock p235x75r15 tires.
> >Thanks,
> >Mike
>
> No special tools, and its pretty simple. Block the front
> tires in front and behind them. Losen the nuts on the front
> of the diff. and take off the joint. Put the rear end up on
> jack stands, take the tires off. Unbolt the axle ends from
> the axle tube. Slide the axles out about 2 inches. Take
> the nuts off the diff, pull diff out (use a rolling jack,
> its heavy) and put another one in. Installation is the
> reverse of this. First time ought to take 2-3 hours. Second
> time will take 45 minutes, if you've got someone to help,
> it can be accomplished, with practice, in 15 minutes.
> Putting a locker in should be the same as an open end.
>
> Ken Payne
>
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Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 13:22:32 -0400
From: Craig Butler
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1994 Ranger stutter problems

I've got a 1994 Ranger. The problem is that for the last few weeks it infrequently bucks and stutters (misfires) upon moderate and hard acceleration. It is usually in 2,3 and 4th gear. If I back off the pedal, it quits. Here is a list of what I've done so far to try and fix it:

Spark plugs
plug wires
> oxygen sensors
fuel filter
> air filter
PVC valve

I am beginning to think that it may be a vacuum leak. Any thought form the lsit on what it may be/how to fix it??

Craig Butler

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Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 12:27:16 -0700
From: Jon Berman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F-150 tire brands

Hello,

I'm looking to replace the tires on my 1994 Ford F-150, 2wd, and need
some suggestions on tire brands. I currently have 30x9.50r15 BF ....

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